American designer Jeremy Scott presented the pinkest and most playful show of Milan Fashion Week so far
BY Luke Leitch | 19 September 2014
1. The explainer
"There's one main reference and it's Barbie. I'm taking her through her day to evening. She is quite famous for having a lot of looks - rollerskating looks, jogging looks, every look - she's an institution. Every little girl and lots of little boys have grown up loving her. So she's the cue for the collection this season. There are no other references because she encompasses everything. She's had every job. She's even been an astronaut. Barbie basically is the full package - plus she loves an evening dress which is very important for Moschino."
SEE ALL THE LOOKS FROM THE BARBIE-INSPIRED MOSCHINO SHOW
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2. The first season with Moschino
"It's been wonderful. They are super-supportive of everything I want to do. From business ideas like the capsule collection which is working quite well, to not getting into my business when I want to do something like a show that's completely about Barbie! They are enthusiastic and happy and never try to suggest anything different or put a dampener on the ideas. We are very well matched."
SEE ALL THE LOOKS FROM THE BARBIE-INSPIRED MOSCHINO SHOW
3. Scott's favourite Barbie
"Real Barbie or human Barbie? Both, OK: well my favourite real Barbie would be Superstar Barbie. Like many celebrities she has changed her face a lot over time. That's the what-they-call 'sculpt' that I like the best and that's what we used for the doll that you will see we have produced. And from the show... it's difficult to say. They're all my babies. I love them so much. It's like - they all have so much meaning to me. There is nothing there because I don't love it. There are racks of clothes we have been unable to use. We were at 50 looks at one point. I was like, 'people could use five more bursts of joy couldn't they?".
4 . On whether Barbie is an anachronistic relic who catalyses the indoctrination of young girls into stereotypes of gendered subordination that should have no currency in the 21st Century
"I think Barbie brings joy. And that's what I try and do in my work. I am a controversial person too. We are very much in line together. And I think some people dig way too deep about this. It's a doll. It's a toy. And on my side - it's only fashion. If you don't like it, don't buy it! It's that simple. Turn the page on whatever you are watching it on, Instagram or Twitter or whatever. There's a lot of things I don't like in the world. There is music I don't like, there is fashion I don't like, TV, movies, everything - I just choose the ones I like. That's my philosophy."
SEE ALL THE LOOKS FROM THE BARBIE-INSPIRED MOSCHINO SHOW
5. On Moschino's marginalisation of Ken
"Well, she's getting ready for Ken. That's what she's doing at the very end. Getting ready to go the party. But I'm not going to have Ken in the show."
SEE ALL THE LOOKS FROM THE BARBIE-INSPIRED MOSCHINO SHOW
Designer Jeremy Scott
All photos by Isidore Montag